pony express territory towns

Consider this a mini Tour Around Nevada, if you will, of 15 central Nevada burgs.

By CHARLIE JOHNSTON | March/April 2011

The tough-as-nails riders of the Pony Express Trail would likely scoff at the moniker bestowed upon their route by Time magazine more than a century after they thundered across Nevada’s hostile expanses. “The Loneliest Road in America,” U.S. Highway 50 through the heart of the Silver State, travels approximately the same route as the fabled 1860-61 mail track through the territory named for it.

The path that was plagued by hellacious weather and violent bandits and natives more than 150 years ago is today beset by unique towns and friendly locals, making it feel like a pointedly un-lonely place. The namesake is still apt, though, as the open expanses of Nevada wilderness between towns look largely the same as they did when the Pony rode.

AUSTIN

Legend has it that the trail that lends its name to the Pony Express Territory was responsible for the birth of Austin when a mail carrier and stage agent, William Talcott, kicked over a rock, inadvertently revealing silver and kicking off—literally—a silver rush to the area. The town, named for Austin, Texas, was first settled in 1862, lending a bit of credence to the tale. By summer 1863, Austin—and the surrounding Reese River Mining District—had a population of more than 10,000 and was named the seat of Lander County.  By 1880, the Nevada Central Railroad was built to connect the city to the transcontinental railroad at Battle Mountain. As was the case with all Nevada mining boomtowns, the mines eventually played out, and major silver production ended by 1887.

Today, the town of slightly more than 300 is one of the state’s best-preserved examples of an early mining town. The Catholic and Methodist churches, both built in 1866, and Episcopal church (1878) are among Nevada’s most impressive 19th-century houses of worship, and the International Hotel, originally built in Virginia City in 1859 and partially moved to Austin in 1863, still serves food and refreshments today.

While the silver rush is long dead, the area is renowned for the high-quality turquoise and variscite (a close cousin of turquoise) extracted from small locally owned mines, available in several shops in town. In addition to the unique gemstones, Austin is also popular for its proximity to abundant outdoor activities from mountain biking and ATV riding to hunting and fishing. Stokes Castle (pictured at right), a three-story stone tower dating to 1896, is located just outside of town. Spencer Hot Springs, a short drive southeast of town, is a great place to soak away adventure-induced aches before retiring to dinner at one of Austin’s friendly eateries and a good night’s sleep in one of the comfortable motels or bed and breakfasts.

Events such as the Lincoln Highway Car Show (April), Gridley Days and 4th of July, and Lions Club Fly-In (August) are a great chance to see the town and mingle with locals and other visitors.

CONTACT

Greater Austin Chamber of Commerce
austinnevada.com
775-964-2200

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BAKER & BORDER

The town of Baker traces it origin to 1875 when Absalom Lehman—famous for the 1885 discovery of his namesake Lehman Caves—established a ranch there. By the 1890s, the town grew as miners and more ranchers settled the area. Today, the town of fewer than 400 is the gateway to Great Basin National Park and its popular Lehman Caves. In addition to housing the park’s visitors center, Baker is a favorite stop for last-minute supplies before entering Great Basin. More than half of Baker’s handful of motels, restaurants, and stores are open only seasonally—typically late spring through mid-October—but some provide food, gas, lodging, and supplies year-round.

One of Nevada’s most aptly named towns, Border, straddles the Utah boundary on U.S. Highway 50 just north of Baker. More of a roadhouse than a town, Border is home to the Border Inn Restaurant and Motel, which includes a gas station and small grocery/souvenir store.

CONTACTS

Great Basin National Park
100 Great Basin National Park, Baker
nps.gov/grba
775-234-7331

Great Basin Business & Tourism Council: greatbasinpark.com
Great Basin National Heritage Area: greatbasinheritage.org

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CHERRY CREEK

Silver discoveries in 1872 led to Cherry Creek’s founding and growth. By late 1880, the town supported as many as 1,800 residents, a Wells Fargo agency, and even a horse track. Cherry Creek busted in 1883 but boomed again slightly from 1905 to 1908 and 1935 to 1940.

Cherry Creek is still home to a handful of residents and numerous original buildings, including the log jailhouse—now converted into a private residence—and 1883 post office, which is now a saloon and Cherry Creek’s only business. The original school, built in 1872, still stands and now houses a museum.

CONTACT

White Pine County Tourism and Recreation Board
150 6th St., Ely
elynevada.net
800-496-9350

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DAYTON

One of two towns that lays claim to the title of Nevada’s oldest settlement—the other is Genoa, and the debate continues—Dayton was first settled in 1851 following the 1849 discovery of gold in nearby Gold Canyon. The town was Lyon County’s first seat in 1861 and a stop along the fabled Pony Express Trail and Overland Stage Route. Following the bonanza of nearby Virginia City’s Comstock Lode, Dayton became an important milling site and center of commerce.

After the Lode busted, Dayton struggled but held on, due in part to its place along the Carson River and resulting fertile soil that supported an agriculture industry. In the later decades of the 20th century, with its affordable housing prices Dayton grew as a bedroom community of nearby Carson City and the Reno-Sparks metropolitan area.

Today, Dayton supports a population of almost 8,500. The historic treasure-trove is awash with Nevada mining-era charm, from the nostalgic boarded sidewalks to historic buildings such as the Odeon Hall & Saloon (pictured), schoolhouse, and Union Hotel, all built between 1860 and 1870.

Dayton State Park offers camping and picnicking facilities along the Carson River and includes the remnants of the 1861 Rock Point Mill. In addition to the historical draws, Dayton’s Arnold Palmer-designed golf course and the Dayton Valley Golf and Country Club are major attractions.

CONTACTS

Dayton Chamber of Commerce
daytonnvchamber.org
775-246-7909

Dayton State Park
parks.nv.gov/dsp.htm
775-687-5678

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ELY

Unique among many Nevada towns, Ely’s mining boom was not responsible for its creation but came along three decades after the town was founded as a stagecoach station and post office in 1870. When the boom did hit in the early 1900s, copper was the metal of focus. While Ely’s copper mines have experienced times of prosperity and decline, they continue to produce today after more than 100 years and have been heavily responsible for the town avoiding the fate of many Nevada ghost towns and near-ghost towns. The city of more than 4,000 also owes its prosperity to its location at the confluence of U.S. Highways 6, 50, and 93.

Ely is a destination worthy of far greater attention than its modest size might suggest. From historically significant attractions in and around town to myriad outdoor recreation options in surrounding parks and wilderness areas, the seat of White Pine County (named so in 1887) offers something for virtually every visitor.

Hotel Nevada & Gambling Hall (pictured) was the tallest building in the state when it opened in 1929, and the Ely Renaissance Village offers living-history demonstrations in a collection of historic buildings. The Nevada Northern Railway—which opened in the early 1900s to connect Ely’s copper mines to the Southern Pacific Railroad—is perhaps one of the best salutes to trains in the country. Complete with rides on historic locomotives, tours of the railroad grounds, and the informative East Ely Railroad Depot Museum, the NNRY is a highlight of any Ely visit.

Nearby Cave Lake State Park is a top fishing and camping destination and hosts unique events such as the Cocktails and Cannons Bath Tub Races (June) and White Pine Fire and Ice Show (January). Great Basin National Park and its many outdoor activities are an hour away, and Ward Charcoal Ovens State Historic Park features six historic kilns, used to reduce wood to charcoal during early 19th-century mining booms.

CONTACT

White Pine County Tourism and Recreation Board
150 6th St., Ely
elynevada.net
800-496-9350

REFLECTIONS

These days Elyites look more and more to the area’s heritage and natural wonders to boost the local economy. The new prison, the revitalized Nevada Northern Railway, and Great Basin National Park, whose early boosters were White Piners, all will help the cause. Thus Ely residents look ahead with optimism while celebrating the 100th birthday of their never-say-die town.

“Ely Comes of Age”
Nevada Magazine, June 1987

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EUREKA

Many former mining towns across the country have names that indicate their founding impetus, but few do so with such enthusiasm as Eureka. The town was first settled in 1865, after prospectors from nearby Austin discovered silver in the area, and was named the seat of newly created Eureka County in 1873, a distinction it still holds today.

Eureka retains its historical character possibly better than any other Nevada town excluding Virginia City, a blessing owed, ironically, to natural and human-assisted disasters. Numerous fires and floods forced early residents to replace the typical wooden buildings of mining boomtowns with brick structures, resulting in a city that stood more steadfastly against the elements than many of its neighbors.

Among those buildings are the 1879 courthouse, which boasts an original courtroom with original wainscoting, pressed tin ceiling, and chandeliers, and the beautifully restored Eureka Opera House, which hosts events, plays, and musical performances throughout the year. Another historical must-see is the Eureka Sentinel Museum. Housed in the former newspaper’s original home, the museum contains original press equipment and other historical Eureka artifacts.

The self-guided walking tour is a great way to see these sites, and events such as the Utah Shakespeare Festival (March 18), Perdiz Fun Shoot (April 2), and Show What Ya Brung Car Show (May 13-14) provide plenty of entertainment when the walking is done.

CONTACT

Eureka County
co.eureka.nv.us
775-237-6006

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FALLON

The self-proclaimed Oasis of Nevada owes its existence to the U.S. Geological Survey, which in 1890 determined that water from the Carson and Truckee Rivers could be diverted to the Lahontan Valley to irrigate land for farming. The fertile land of the new desert oasis created by the 1903 Newlands Project attracted farmers around the turn of the 20th century, and the City of Fallon was incorporated in 1908. In the 1920s, local farmers started growing the soon-to-be world famous Hearts O’ Gold cantaloupes.

In 1942, Naval Auxiliary Air Station Fallon was commissioned to answer the threat of Japanese attack during WWII. Now called Naval Air Station Fallon, the base employs 3,000 military and non-military personnel, making it one of the largest employers in northwestern Nevada and one of the Navy’s most important bases.

The city of almost 9,000 remains heavily focused on farming and ranching today and is responsible for some of Nevada’s best produce, beef, and dairy. A favorite local eatery, The Slanted Porch, takes full advantage of such fruits of the Lahontan Valley and offers unparalleled fresh farm-to-table meals. Lattin Farms (pictured), a five-generation Fallon staple, provides much of the food served at the restaurant and sells produce directly to the public at the farm’s produce stand and local farmers’ markets. Events at Lattin Farms include the annual Fall Festival, with hayrides, a pumpkin patch, and an ever-popular corn maze. In addition to cantaloupes, pumpkins, and everything else offered at Lattin Farms, the valley is also favorable for growing grapes, and that is where Churchill Vineyards comes in. One of only a handful of Nevada winemakers, they currently offer six varieties.

A multitude of interesting and entertaining parks, recreation areas, and other places of interest such as Fort Churchill State Historic Park, ancient petroglyphs at Grimes Point, Lake Lahontan State Recreation Area, and Sand Mountain surround Fallon. Bird watching at Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge and the annual Spring Wings Bird Festival (May 13-15) draw birders from around the country. Other popular Fallon events include Octane Fest (June 9-12) and Fallon Fights boxing (August 27).

CONTACTS

Fallon Convention and Tourism Authority
100 Campus Way, Fallon
fallontourism.com
866-432-5566

City of Fallon
cityoffallon.com
775-423-3040

REFLECTIONS

Fallon is not a large city, but the smallness of its size does not begin to indicate its importance and significance to the welfare and economy of western Nevada and in the region it serves. It has all the modern conveniences one finds in a metropolitan district, with the added advantage of plenty of elbow room to move around in… It is one of the most substantial and progressive little cities in the state.

“Fallon’s Lahontan Was First Western Reclamation Job”
Nevada Highways and Parks, January-March 1950

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FERNLEY

Like its neighbor Fallon, Fernley was a major beneficiary of the 1903 Newlands Project irrigation and river diversion endeavor. The canal and fertile land, combined with the realignment of the Southern Pacific Railroad, heralded the beginning of settlement in what became Fernley. In the following decades, Fernley experienced modest growth until the construction of Interstate 80 spurred a boom. The population more than doubled between 1960 and 1970 and again by 1980. Today, almost 20,000 people call Fernley home thanks largely to its proximity to the Reno-Sparks metropolitan area and affordable housing costs.

At the confluence of U.S. Highways 50 and 95 and I-80, some of northwestern Nevada’s most visited attractions are a short drive from Fernley. Water sports destinations such as Lahontan Reservoir and Pyramid Lake are less than an hour away, and history buffs will enjoy the ruins of Fort Churchill State Historic Park. Local events such as the 4th of July Celebration and Show and Shine and Fernley Vaquero Days and Senior Pro Rodeo (both in September) are popular, and the Reno-Fernley Raceway offers events virtually every weekend from April through October.

CONTACTS

Fernley Chamber of Commerce
70 N. West St., Fernley
fernleychamber.org
775-575-4459

City of Fernley
595 Silver Lace Blvd., Fernley
cityoffernley.org
775-784-9800

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KINGSTON

The town of Kingston was born in 1864 during the mining boom that consumed the entire region surrounding Austin and Bunker Hill. Today, the town of about 300 is more or less passed through on the way to what has been called some of the best fishing in Nevada along Kingston Creek and in Groves Lake. For multi-day fishing outings, Kingston Campground has 12 sites, restrooms, and drinking water. For more sophisticated accommodations, Miles End Lodge Bed & Breakfast offers three rooms and hosted meals.

CONTACTS

Lander County
landeropportunity.org
775-635-8245

Miles End Lodge Bed & Breakfast
107 Del Dr., Kingston
milesendbnb.com
775-964-1046

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LUND

Mormon settlers founded Lund in 1898. The town was one of the last colonization efforts undertaken by the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints. Today, the town of about 150 people is home to a handful of businesses and the White River Valley Museum, a tribute to the town’s founders with relics from 19th-century Nevada and a vintage log cabin that visitors are welcome to explore.

Events in Lund, such as the Nevada Open Road Challenge (May) and Silver State Classic Challenge (September) races, take advantage of Nevada’s open roads with participating drivers reaching speeds in excess of 180 mph.

CONTACT

White Pine County Tourism and Recreation Board
150 6th St., Ely
elynevada.net
800-496-9350

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McGILL

In 1906, the Nevada Consolidated Copper Company built a mill and smelter north of Ely in the Steptoe Valley to accommodate the large amounts of copper ore being produced in Ely mines. Two years later, the company built a town to house mill employees, and McGill was born. The Nevada Northern Railway extended a line to the town to carry ore to the mill and smelter. McGill prospered until the 1970s when the mines, mill, smelter, and railroad closed.

The town has survived the substantial blow of losing its primary industry, and today about 1,000 people call it home. The McGill Drugstore Museum—which opened the same year the town was founded—was a working drugstore until it closed in 1979 and remains today as a time capsule with many products from the time it closed and earlier still on the shelves.

The McGill Swimming Pool is a popular summer hangout, with a sandy beach, slides, and diving board.

CONTACT

McGill Drugstore Museum
11 4th St., McGill
mcgilldrugstoremuseum.org
775-235-7276

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MIDDLEGATE

Another one of Nevada’s towns that might be more accurately described as a roadhouse, Middlegate, on U.S. Highway 50 at the junction with State Route 361, is little more than Middlegate Station, a restaurant and bar with a handful of motel rooms. A Pony Express Station occupied this general location during the mail route’s short-lived existence. Middlegate is an ideal lunch stop for visitors traveling to Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park, about 50 miles southeast.

A few miles away on S.R. 722 toward Carroll Summit, Eastgate is home to a few picturesque houses and ranches.

CONTACT

Middlegate Station
middlegatestation.net
775-423-7134

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RUTH

Ruth was founded in the early 1900s to house workers of the Nevada Consolidated Copper Company. By the late 1920s, Ruth boasted a population of about 2,200 people. In the 1950s, the rapid growth of the nearby open-pit copper mine required that the town be moved; about the same time, Ruth was turned over to White Pine County (read more in this issue’s History story). Today, the bedroom community of Ely is home to about 500 people.

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SILVER SPRINGS

The area that now includes the town of Silver Springs has long been a crossroads. California 49ers passed through here on their way to the gold fields, the Pony Express rode through the valley, and today U.S. Highway 50 connects Carson City and Fallon through the town of almost 5,000.

A casino, restaurants, gas stations, and convenience stores serve the town and visitors who often stock up on supplies en route to nearby Lake Lahontan State Recreation Area and Fort Churchill State Historic Park. On May 21-22, Silver Springs Airport hosts the Lyon County Fly-In.